Back to stage 4 & fitted the cylinder heads to the engine block & the front mounting point (Part H4). I checked beforehand that the fan belt would still go on at a later stage if I was to fit the mounting block.
Next was to make up the main gearbox housing bar the rear mounting plate (Part A6). After filling then sanding fixed it to the engine block leaving off the filter & starter motor. I made the air intake parts (H12 & E3). Fitted these to the top of the block.
The whole unit was then sprayed with a few light coats of Vallejo "Model Air" Aluminium (71.062). I then just gave it a light mist of "Model Air" Steel (71.065)
As our motto says Martyn uses the airbrushes etc. we sell on his own models, so we know they are up to the job.
Models made by Airbrushheaven staff
Friday, 29 May 2015
Wednesday, 20 May 2015
1:12 Tamiya Porsche 910 :- 2- Engine block
Time to hit the powerplant on the Porsche. The 2 engine halves were glued together & fitted the front of the engine, but went away from the instructions by adding the rear of the engine block ( part No. H1) to the engine. Did this to see if the join needed any sanding, & guess what? It did.
Using as coarse grade sanding pad I sanded the front & rear of the engine flat to the block then used plasto filler on the first fill/sand, then a medium superglue was put over the remaining filler.
I do this to allow the superglue to get into any little mirco pores in the filler & when dry/sanded I nearly always no join lines coming through & a glass like finish.
Another tip given was to put some paint over the sanded area & when turned under any light it will show up any area that still needs work.
This paint was then sanded off with a very fine grade sanding pad & washed/dried to remove any dirt or paint.
Using as coarse grade sanding pad I sanded the front & rear of the engine flat to the block then used plasto filler on the first fill/sand, then a medium superglue was put over the remaining filler.
I do this to allow the superglue to get into any little mirco pores in the filler & when dry/sanded I nearly always no join lines coming through & a glass like finish.
Another tip given was to put some paint over the sanded area & when turned under any light it will show up any area that still needs work.
This paint was then sanded off with a very fine grade sanding pad & washed/dried to remove any dirt or paint.
Friday, 15 May 2015
1:12 Tamiya Porsche 910 :- 1-chassis prep
Before I started on the engine I thought it best to spray the whole of the chassis floor so it could dry fully while doing other parts. I masked off the gaps on the underside & sprayed the whole area with Humbrol Matt Tank grey (no.67) & allowed it to dry.
When it comes to thinning paint I get asked a lot what ratio of paint to thinners should I use, well I have an old trusted method from a fellow model maker when I first started using airbrushes over 30 years ago which is thin it to the consistency of skimmed milk as every companies paint needs a different amount of thinner.
Humbrol works out at 1/2 the amount of thinners to paint i.e. 10mls of paint I use 5mls of thinners, 14mls of paint has 7mls of thinners etc...
When it comes to thinning paint I get asked a lot what ratio of paint to thinners should I use, well I have an old trusted method from a fellow model maker when I first started using airbrushes over 30 years ago which is thin it to the consistency of skimmed milk as every companies paint needs a different amount of thinner.
Humbrol works out at 1/2 the amount of thinners to paint i.e. 10mls of paint I use 5mls of thinners, 14mls of paint has 7mls of thinners etc...
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